I went to Ghana at the end of November through to mid December with my boyfriend. I had the most amazing time. It was truly like coming home after 28 long years.
The country is vibrant and b
ursting with so much burgeoning hope. Yet, it is a country of two half's, the haves and the have nots, paying reluctant host to a divided country. The disparity between the very rich and the very poor jutted out at me at every turn, making it impossible to understand how the haves continued to feel entitled to even more unchallenged by those who toiled in the hot sun to earn what was the equivalent of $2 a day.
$2 a day - the UN estimates that this is what half the worlds population lives on. A statement I'd heard many times but had no meaning until I went to Ghana. I know what $2 buys me, possibly a few packs of gum, maybe some other throw away commodity, but to know that in Ghana $2 a day buys a family survival for one day was heart breaking.
Among the hustle and bustle of daily life arrested too frequently by traffic, I observed a country where bartering was a way of life and cash is king.
Our first trip to the Ohene Djan sports stadium gave me my first glimpse of Ghana's potential. A mid day, mid week match between two teams, bore host to a half filled stadium. A half filled stadium which roared with the excitement of a full stadium at the fleeting opportunities at goal.
I saw children playing tennis, an idea that had never occurred to me given the paucity of images or news items about Afric
an tennis. I look forward to one day watching a Ghanaian tennis match.
Independence Square was centered on a round about making access only possible with the hand of possible death pushing you into the way of circling cars, but a photo was possible from a distance.
Independence Arch was accessible directly by road, where we were greeted by two soldiers, their Kalashnikovs plain to see by their side. A conversation with our driver quickly revieled that in order to take a photo in the independence arch area would require an injection of universal lubricant - 1 cedi.
At Accra International Conference Center, I met my dad's old friend, a man whose pictures I'd seen, but my memory had suppressed. I struggled to recall, but couldn't until I found a picture of he and I when I returned home.
National Theater, Kwam
e Nkrumah memorial park and Du Bois memorial center for pan african culture featured on our lis
t as well. What I observed at Kwame Nkrumah memorial park and Du Bois centre showed jus
t how war and political instability had destroyed our historical archives. I was amazed to learn that Du Bois had such strong connections with Ghana and his role in supporting the Pan Afr
ican movement at a time when segregation still existed in Ghana and to find out that he died in Ghana was even more humbling. To think of those before me who risked their lives for freedom, brought tears to my eyes and made me so grateful for their sacrifice.
Kwame Nkrumah memorial
park was a wonderful experience. I did feel that the museum was limited in it's completeness. Nkrumah's opposition destroyed much of his personal effects so what little there was to see was donated by his family and his second wife's son to be precise. In the old black and white photos she appeared to be of Arab or caucasion extraction, but upon further investigation, it turned out she was Egyptian. I wondered then what happened to his first wife and why she appeared to be erased from his history.
Du Bois Center for Pan African culture was equally enlightening. I stood in the very house that he died in and I felt a real sense of history. Closing my eyes I tried to imagine the clandestine meetings between he and his fellow Africans, the promise of emancipation greater than their fear of arrest or worse.
Much of Ghana is under development fueled by consumption demand for western goods and export of raw materials. The presence of Chinese and not just passing Chinese but settled Chinse suggests a second wave of economic colonialism. I am worried how these ties with the Chinese will work out. I can't be sure that our leaders won't sell the country as they have done time and time again down the river.
My fear of this was realised when I saw our great leader's statue being painted by Chinese contractors and to later find out that road building contracts were being handed to them was disappointing. China has a long history of supporting African nations but this was during the cold war, when there were clear ideological reasons for supporting each other, but with the move towards capitalism, I struggle to see the true benefit of this relationship.
Labadi beach came next where we finally got an opportunity to be beach tourists. Our relaxation spoilt by beach hustlers trying to sell us everything from costume jewellery to underwear.
Accra Mall provided retail therapy though much of the merchandise on offer was expensive by local standards. International products such as electronics, home furnishings and designer wear was available as were fashionable African dresses, which catered to the slimmer women. A nice dress was around £50-£60, sadly, I couldn't fit into any of then.
Aburi Botanical Gardens was a little boring as we didn't have a tour guide so we were left to our own devises. Few of the plants were named so we didn't really know much about them. We did find one tree of interest which was the Strangler Ficus tree which consumes its host and leaves a hollow structure.
Shai Hills resource reserve was amazing. I've never been up close to a monkey before let along touched one, so feeding them was a new experience. We went up through the hills and into caves where the Shai people lived. We sat on a ledge where the King of the Shai's used to address his people. The landscape was beautiful but humid. A note of caution, wear a good pair of sneakers/trainers when you go because climbing up the rocky terrain can be hazardous.
The next day, we took a trip to Kakum park. A very long wait to get into the bridge almost made me turn back. I discovered that it was a public holiday (farmer's day) which meant that hundreds of school children were invited to attend the park. This meant that what should have been a 5 minute wait ended up being a 2 hour wait. When we finally did get onto the bridge it was a fun but slightly scary experience. After the long wait and the climax of the shaky bridge the exit was very disappointing. There was nothing to do afterwards, no bar or restaurant to relax and quench our thirst.
After Kakum park we took a trip to Elmina castle, built by the Portuguese where upon arrival we were greeted by unofficial greeters, young boys who welcomed us asking us for our names. We were taken on a tour of the castle which had stood where it was for over 500 years. To hear of how many people died during the transatlantic trade broke my heart. We were shown where slaves who resisted were taken to to die, the small airless room marked by a scull and cross bone. More unspeakable cruelty could be seen in the dungeons where slaves were kept for weeks and months at a time whilst they waited for the slave ships to return to collect more slaves, exporting them to a foreign land. Many of them died before even getting onto the boats, left to wallow in their own filth and excrement. More harrowing was the area where female slaves were kept, raped at will by the Governor of the castle, those who resisted the pleasure of his lusts were tied by a ball and chain to the center of his court, humiliated, denied sustenance until their resistance or will to live melted away. We emerged from the castle contemplative, wondering what would have happened to Africa if slavery had never existed only to be accosted by the same "greeters" outside giving us a sea shell with our names written neatly in black marker pen. I immediately refused the "gift" which I knew required a payment, but they insisted. I reluctantly accepted the gift but then was asked to sign a pledge to give money to their school. Unfortunately, we'd run out of money at that point in the trip and unable to find a cash machine we relied on our driver for loan. I have the young boy the last 5 cedis I had. He asked me to sign a pledge stating that I gave him 10 cedis presumably in the hope that I'd give him an extra 5 cedis. I soon realised that my initiation suspicion was right. I was disappointing that in such a sacred place, the Government couldn't prevent this sort of behaviour.
Makola market was an experience. I saw lots of very interesting looking food which I'd seen my mum cook on several occasions. Beautiful fabrics which I'll be returning to buy and smells which belong to the market.
All in all, my trip was one of the most life changing experiences I've ever had. Not least because my partner of 2 years proposed to me but because I have decided that I will work towards living in Ghana. My 5 year plan has been set in motion and everything I do going forward is to secure that dream.
Oh, you can view my experiences in a clip I produced on my youtube channel.
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